Camera Strap Cover

It’s time for vacation!! I haven’t posted a tutorial in awhile.  In truth, I’ve been busy.  I’ve made a lot of new bags for my Etsy shop and I finished up some lingering projects including five quilts! Pictures to follow in my next post.

I’m leaving on vacation in a matter of hours now.  And of course at the last minute I just HAD to make a camera strap cover.  As it turns out, it was simple and I am pretty proud of it 😉

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I used the tutorial found here. It is amazing and thorough.  I made my strap a little differently mostly based on the supplies I had.  This is a quick and easy project.  So, let’s get started:

For this project you will need:

a sewing machine


scissors or rotary cutter and mat

fabric for exterior and lining

coordinating thread

heavy fusible interfacing

Step 1) Cut your fabric and interfacing

Cut a strip of fabric measuring 24″ long and 4 1/4″ wide from each fabric.  *You’ll have to adjust the length measurement according to the strap you are covering.  I wanted mine to be long enough to cover all the brand labels.

Cut a piece of heavyweight interfacing to measure 23″ long and 2″ wide.  You want it to be a little smaller since it adds a lot of bulkiness.

*If you are using a lightweight interfacing you’ll want it to be the same size as your fabric strip (24″ long and 4 1/4″wide).


*My mom’s name on the rotary cutter is very visible here hehe. Thanks for all the supplies you’ve donated mom!

Step 2) Attach your interfacing

Attach your interfacing to the wrong side of the lining fabric. I did not use iron on interfacing.  I stitched the interfacing to the lining fabric using a 1/8″ seam.


Step 3) Sew the strips of fabric together

You should now have two pieces of fabric, one with interfacing attached.  With right sides facing, pin and sew along the long edge on each side using a 1/4″ seam allowance.


Congratulations, you’ve created a weird fabric tube shaped thingy.  Keep going, you’re almost finished!

Turn your project right side out and press.


Step 4) Sew the ends

Tuck the raw edges of each side under about 1/2″ and press.

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Sew opening closed using a 1/4″ seam allowance.


Step 5) Fold and sew the cover closed 

Fold the project in half lengthwise and press.  Sew along the unfolded edge using a 1/8″ seam.


*Ignore the fact the seam is already sewn in the above picture.  I forgot to take a picture while in the process and I wasn’t about to take it all out!

That’s it! You’re finished! All you have to do is thread your camera strap through the cover.  I found it helpful to use a safety pin on the end of the camera strap to help feed it through.  It fits around my strap snugly but I like knowing it won’t shift around.  Now to go on vacation and put this sucker to good use! Send me a picture if you make one of your own.



Using a Zipper Foot

In a previous post I had written about how I have never used a zipper foot while making zippered bags. I make A LOT of zippered bags. Which is why it’s so frustrating that I didn’t start using a zipper foot sooner! I always felt they were confusing and cumbersome.  After using one to make a cosmetic bag, I stand corrected. They are amazing.

The only reason I had convinced myself to use the zipper foot was because I am making seven cosmetic bags for a friend’s bridal party.  I thought I’d try it out.  When I make a lot of the same bag in a day I like to sew in all zippers at once, then sew all the sides, the bottoms…you get the idea.  It’s like a little assembly line.  I tried it out and it is a life saver! Not only is it easy to change from the regular sewing foot but it enables you to get a straight seam that’s perfectly close to the zipper’s teeth.

Here’s a quick tutorial so you can become a master of zippers as well.


I’m using a Brother  machine in this tutorial but the techniques should be universal with all machines. The zipper foot will allow you to sew as close to the zipper teeth as possible.  The first picture below shows a zipper foot on the left and a regular quilting foot on the right. The other two pictures show each foot attached the machine and where the needle is compared to the edge of the foot. You can see that the zipper foot allows you to stitch along the left side of the foot or the right. On my machine changing the foot  pressing a lever behind the foot and replacing it with the a different foot (aligning it to whichever side you want the stitch to be closest to).


Step 1) Set up your zippered project as usual. I am making a boxy pouch.  I have place the zipper face down onto the right side of the fabric and placed the lining fabric on top.  This creates a zipper sandwich. Pin in place.


2) You want to sew as close to the zipper teeth as you can.  Attach the zipper foot so that the stitches you will make will be on the left side of the foot’s edge. Sew by lining up the edge of the foot  with the teeth of the zipper.


3) Press the fabric away from the zipper teeth. DSC_1043

4) Topstitch the fabric down, along the zipper teeth.  To do this, switch your zipper foot so it now makes a stitch towards the right edge of the zipper foot.  Align the right edge of the foot with the zipper teeth and sew.DSC_1047

You’re almost done, repeat these steps for the other side of the zipper, adjusting the zipper foot accordingly.


To make this bag, refer to my previous post here but change the measurements of the fabric. You will cut two pieces of fabric (one exterior, one lining) to measure 12″ by 18″ each.  Use a 12-14″ zipper.  The final bag measures 4.5″ tall, 4.5″ wide and 7.5″ long. It’s the perfect sized cosmetic bag! Have fun!


Happy Quilt=Happy Me!

A few blogs have posted about this amazing fabric store: Happy Quilt  but I thought I would share my experience with you!

I had known before coming to South Korea that many designers have their fabrics made here.  I found Happy Quilt’s stall in Dongdaemun market a few months back with the help of another foreigner in search of the stall. The stall is great and has a wide array of different fabrics by multiple designers.  However, knowing that there was a ENTIRE store offering meters of fabric for $3-5, I HAD to find it!

My parents were visiting from Canada and my mom, being the fabric enthusiast that she is, also wanted to check out the Happy Quilt store.  We woke up early on Friday morning to venture out to Happy Quilt.  I had been under the assumption that it was only accessible by car or bus-wrong! We got on the subway on Line 1 (dark blue) at Seoul Station.  We took the (long!) ride to Jije Station. I’m not exaggerating when I say it was a long trip.  It is 30 stops and it took about an hour and a half.  The ride was relaxing but Jije is far removed from the downtown area of Seoul.  Expect to pass farmland, factories and for the train to be relatively empty.

We finally arrived at Jije Station! There is an E-Mart across the street from the station where we went to get some food to fuel our adventure. And then we were off to our highly anticipated trip to Happy Quilt! To get to Happy Quilt you have to walk over the large bridge next to the subway station.  This  blog has GREAT directions on how to get to Happy Quilt once you exit the station.  Without her fabulous pictures and descriptions, we would have been lost and confused!




The middle picture shows the bridge we had just walked over on the left and Jije Station of the right. Once you walk over the bridge that are many signs to direct you which way to go.


This really is a paradise for anyone interested in sewing, quilting or crafting.  They have endless bolts of fabric and notions.

They have every type of fabric: baby, kids, sports teams, animals, chevron, polka dots, solids, kawaii, stripes, florals, pre-quilted fabrics, the largest collection of flannels I’ve ever seen, even Batman fabric for my husband (not sure what I’m making with that one!).

You can buy the fabrics off the bolt and they range from 3,000-4,500W (about $3-4.50) per meter.  That’s 75% less than what we pay back in Canada! They also have a large selection of pre-cut fabric in plastic wrapping for the same price.  They also have a wide selection of fat quarters. Some of the fabric designers include WestminsterRiley Blake and Vera Bradley among others.  They also have zippers, purse handles, coin purse frames, zippers, thread, scissors, pins…the list goes on.  If you haven’t figured it out already, they have almost everything!

I bought fabric to make three baby quilts (everyone seems to be expecting a baby these days!), a chevron quilt for nobody in particular, an adorable hexagon pillow and this skirt.  Of course I bought a lot more fabric than what’s required for these projects, but who can resist?


You’ll need to bring cash with you and I would recommend bringing some bags since the black plastic ones we brought weren’t designed to carry as much fabric as we bought.  Give yourself a lot of time (it takes a long time to make so many important decisions!) and go there with a plan of what you need to buy.  As it was I still forgot a few things, it can be overwhelming!

IMG_0418Happy to be at Happy Quilt!

We settle back into our hotel for the night but I couldn’t resist surrounding myself with all the glorious fabric I had bought. Although once it was spread out it didn’t seem like it was enough…do I sound crazy yet? I have big plans for all of it and I can’t wait to get started!

Dongdaemun Market Happy Quilt

A few months ago, I went to Seoul with some friends.  I want to head to Dongdaemun Market in search of what else…fabric! I have accumulated a hoard of fabric while living here in South Korea, but I still need more!  Last time I went to Dongdaemun Market I wasn’t sure where to go and I went on a Sunday.  I found out when I got there that the market is mostly closed on Sundays.  I was still able to find fabric but it was upholstery weight. Great for making cushions, tote bags or curtains, but not what I was looking for.  So I did my research this time and headed out early on a Saturday to track down cotton fabrics.  Even with directions, however, I got lost.  I had read different blogs about where to find fabric.  Yet I wandered around the 5th floor without much luck.  The amount of stalls packed into these buildings is very overwhelming.  I found a few shops, one with interfacing and zippers (10 cents each on the ground floor of building B) but I still hadn’t found much fabric…until I ran into a fellow foreigner in search of the Happy Quilt stall. At this point I thought Happy Quilt was just a store outside of downtown Seoul that I could only dream about going to.  She pointed me in the direction of the Happy Quilt stall (it’s by the elevators on the 5th floor, stall 5215 in building B).  I had read her blog when doing my research on Dongdaemun and Happy Quilt .  How cool was that! Her blog is here. I was not disappointed. Here are some pictures my husband took as I shopped 😀 Yards of fabric for $3-5 each? In the words of my father-in-law…boo yah!!

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Fabric Bunting


This bunting was made for my friend Firyal’s wedding decor.  I chose  peach, pink and yellow colours to match her “vintage” theme 🙂  I had no idea what bunting was until she introduced me to it but now I see it everywhere! There are an endless number of pins on Pinterest showing different ways to use bunting. I’ve had requests to make bunting for a wedding shower, a picnic and for a baby’s nursery. I decided to make a tutorial to show everyone how EASY it is to make.

I made it using this cute trio of fabrics I had ordered online.  I love hot air balloons–too cute! I wasn’t making it for anyone in particular and in an odd coincidence I had a friend contact me to see if I could make her one! This one will be shipped out to my friend Janet tomorrow so she can use it to decorate  her adorable baby boy’s room! If you needed any more inspiration on how to use bunting, check out what Janet plans to use it for here!

For this project you will need:

a sewing machine

piece of cardboard (to make the triangle template-I used an old cereal box)


pencil (chalk pencil preferably)

a fat quarter of 3 coordinating fabrics

pinking shears

3 yards of coordinating bias tape

Step 1) Make your triangle template 

I made my template from an piece of cardboard from an empty cereal box.  Cut out the desired shape of your template. I chose to make my triangle 5 1/2″ across the base and 8″ tall.  Feel free to adjust the size if you want your flags to be a different size.  I’ve seen rectangle flags and scalloped flags…both are very cute!


Variations to this project are very easy.  You could change the shape of the flags, the number of flags, you could use iron on adhesive to include a name or a message.  A friend of mine told me about her sister who made her bunting double sided to use for 2 different occasions…the options are endless!

Step 2) Cut out your fabrics

This bunting will be double sided. Fold your fabric in half, wrong sides together.   You will cut the front and back of each triangle at the same time. You need to cut them at the same time because if you use pinking shears and cut them separately, the tiny triangles the pinking shears make…will never line up!

Place the template on your fabric and trace the shape with a pencil.  Using your pinking shears, cut the fabric out (cut just inside the pencil marks, you don’t want them to show in the final project).

If you are using a directional print (like the hot air balloon fabric below) make sure that the template is centered.  You also want to be mindful that the directional print is not upside down for the front or back of the triangle.


For non directional prints it is a lot easier and a lot less fabric is wasted since you don’t have to worry about the print being upside down.


You will need to cut out 9 triangles (18 total pieces sandwiched together, right sides out).

I like to make anywhere from 9-12 triangles. It’s all in your preference and how much fabric you have on hand.

Step 3) Sew the triangles

Sew each triangle sandwich together.  You want to sew down one side and up the other (the long sides) using a 1/4″ seam allowance.


Don’t worry about sewing the base of the triangle, you’ll do that later.   Repeat until all 9 flags are sewn together.

Step 4) Attach the triangles to the bias tape

You’re almost done!  Fold over the end of the bias tape 1/4″ and sew to create a finished end. Open up the bias tape.  14 ” from the finished edge, place the base of your first triangle.  Fold the bias tape over and pin in place.  Continue to do this, alternating the fabrics.  My flags are approximately 3″ apart from each other.


When you are finished pinning all 9 flags, sew (using a zigzag stitch) along the middle of the bias tape to attach the triangles.


Cut the bias tape 14 1/4″ from the last triangle.  Fold the end over 1/4″ and sew in place.  That’s it, you’re finished! Easy, right?!

Here’s some pictures of the finished product:


Please feel free to use my tutorial to make your own bunting for your own personal use only :) If you have used my tutorial to make your own bunting I’d love to see pictures or leave me a comment! I do not stock in my Etsy shop but I am always willing to make custom orders. If you are interested, contact me here.

Pleated Zippered Pouch

DSC_0077This tutorial is another adaptation of a zippered pouch–it’s a pleated zippered pouch! I think the pleats add a little something extra, don’t you?

Most of the steps are the same as the zippered pouch tutorial. The only changes are in the way you cut the fabric and sewing the pleats (it’s very easy!).  The fabric I chose was sent to me from a friend of mine (thanks, Hanna!).  The fabric reminds me of her because she loves the nautical look.  The fabric is a super cute anchors print.  I paired it with a vibrant yellow zipper.

Let’s get started! You’ll need the following to make this pouch:

a sewing machine

scissors (or rotary cutter and mat)



a zipper (9″ in any colour)

a fat quarter of cotton fabric for lining

a fat quarter of cotton fabric for exterior

scrap piece of fabric measuring 2.5″ wide and 4″ tall.(optional)

zipper foot (optional)

pinking shears (optional)

Step 1) Cut your exterior fabrics 

Cut  the exterior fabric.  The fabric will be cut in a trapezoid (what a fun word!) shape.  Draw a line on your fabric that measures 11” long. This will be the bottom of the trapezoid.  Find the middle of the 11″ line and measure 9″ up from that line and make a dot.  Using the dot as a reference of the middle, draw a line that measures 10″. Connect the ends of the lines together to complete the trapezoid.  So your final piece  should measure 10″ across the top and 11″ across the bottom with a height of 9″.  Repeat these steps so you have 2 identical shaped pieces of exterior fabric.


Note: I originally folded my fabric in half to cut this out in one step…but beware! If you are using a directional print and you try to cut two at a time, one of the prints will be upside down and this will lead to disappointment!! I am embarrassed to admit this happened to me but hopefully you can learn from my mistakes 🙂

Step 2) Sew the pleats

Now it’s time to make the pleats.  Place your fabric right side up.  Along the top of the trapezoid, measure 3″ in from the left edge and make a mark with your pencil (don’t worry, small marks will be hidden in the final product).  From that mark, measure another 1/2″ and make another mark.  Repeat this step from the right edge of the fabric so there are 4 marks on your fabric in total.

Working from the left side, fold the fabric so that the mark you made at 3″ and the mark you made at 3 1/2″ meet together, press this in place.  Repeat for the right side.

Repeat using the second exterior piece of fabric.  When you are finished, you should have something that looks like this:


Baste along the top of each of the pieces to hold the pleats in place.  To do this, I used the widest stitch available on my machine and used a 1/8″ seam allowance.

Step 3) Cut your interior fabrics

To cut the interior fabrics, I found it easiest to trace the shape of the exterior fabric onto the wrong side of the interior fabric.  Cut out the fabric using scissors.

Step 4) Attach the zipper

Okay, at this point, you’re going to finish the bag exactly like you would any other.  The instructions are  identical to my previous tutorial but refer here if you need more pictures.

With your exterior fabric right side up, place the zipper along the top face down. Place the lining right side down on top of the zipper. This makes a sandwich, with the right sides of the fabric facing and the zipper in the middle. Pin in place.  Stitch using a 1/4″ seam allowance, back stitching at both ends. If you are not using a zipper foot on your machine, you’ll have to pause halfway through stitching and move the zipper behind your foot (or the stitching will go wonky as your machine manuevers around it). To do this, stitch to the halfway point, leave your needle down, lift your foot up and open up the zipper to move it behind your foot.  Turn the fabric right sides out and press.

Next, topstitch along the zipper using an 1/8″ seam allowance. This allows the zipper to lie flat and prevents fabric from being caught in the zipper.


Repeat these instructions to attach the other exterior and interior fabrics to the zipper.
Your project should now look like this:


Step 5) Make the side tab (optional)
This step is optional but I think it’s a nice feature.
Take the scrap fabric that you cut into a 2.5″ by 4.5″ rectangle. Fold each end in towards the middle about 1/4″ and press. Fold in half lengthwise and press. Stitch along the edge using a 1/8″ seam. Fold it in half (to make a loop) and press.

Step 6) Sew the sides together
With the right sides facing together, pin the sides of the bag together.
Position the tab (folded in half from Step 5 to make a loop) 1.5″ down from the top, on either side (your preference, I like it to be on the side of the zipper pull when the zipper is closed).  Sandwich it in between the exterior fabrics with the raw edges of the tab matching up with the raw edges of the sides of the bag, pin in place.

Sew up the side of bag using a 1/4″ seam, backstitching at each end. Repeat on the other side of the bag.

Step 7) Sew the bottom of the bag
Open up your zipper. This is important because if you sew both the sides and the bottom, it’s almost impossible to open the zipper when you’re finished (trust me on this one!)
Pin the fabric along the bottom of the bag together and sew using a 1/4″ seam, backstitching at each end.

At this point, I like to trim the seams using pinking shears. Be careful not to cut your seams!

If you turned your bag right side out at this point, it would look something like this:


But let’s keep going and box the corners of the bag.

Step 8) Finish the bag (the last step!!!!)
With the bag inside out, grab one corner of the bag. Match the bottom seam to the side seam to make a triangle. Measure 1.5″ down from the top of the triangle and put a dot with a pencil. Draw a line across the bottom of the triangle to mark where you will stitch. Pin in place. Stitch along the line, backstitching at each end.

Repeat for the other corner. When both “triangles” have been sewn, you can cut off the excess fabric. Turn your bag right side out.

Congratulations you are done and you now own an adorable pleated cosmetic pouch!

The finished bag measures 8 1/2″ long and is 6″ tall.


If you’d like to check out the finished product, find it on my Etsy site. 

Please feel free to use my tutorial to make your own pouch for your own personal use only :)

Makeup Brush Roll

The makeup brush roll up case is a variation on my knitting needle roll up case.  This tutorial is a lot easier and it’s a good beginner project. The roll can be made with or without the iron on vinyl but it will make the interior easy to clean.


Here’s what you’ll need:

a sewing machine

scissors (or rotary cutter and mat)


lining fabric measuring 12″ by 10″

pocket fabric measuring 12″ by 5″

exterior fabric measuring 12″ by 10″


parchment paper

iron-on vinyl (Heat n’ Bond)


coordinating thread


All of my fabrics are the same but I refer to them as pocket, lining and exterior in case you would like to make yours from coordinating fabrics.

Step 1) Cut and prepare your fabrics 


Cut a piece of iron-on vinyl that is slightly larger than your lining fabric.  Following the instructions on the iron-on vinyl, affix the vinyl to the lining fabric.  Be careful not to let your iron touch any of the sticky plastic glue. Trim the excess vinyl off.  If you want, you could skip this step and use oilcloth instead.  I just wanted my lining to be the same fabric as the exterior.

Cut a piece of  interfacing 12″ by 10″.  Attach the interfacing to the exterior fabric.  To do this, place the interfacing with the glue side up.  Place the wrong side of exterior fabric down on top of the interfacing. Place a piece of parchment paper on top of the fabric (ironing the parchment paper instead of directly on the fabrics prevents any glue from getting on the iron).   Iron the fabrics until the interfacing is bonded to the fabric completely.

Step 2)  Make the pocket 

Using the fabric for the pocket that measures 12″ by 5″, fold down the long side 1/4″ and press.  Fold it down another 1/4″ and press.  Sew the fold to create the top of the pocket.


Take the lining fabric, vinyl side up and place the pocket on top with right side up, matching up the raw edges. Pin in place. Baste along the side of the pocket about 1/8″ from the raw edge to hold the pocket in place.  Now you can begin to make the slots for the make up brushes.  I made nine slots.  I chose to make the slots each 1 1/4″ wide.  Note that you want to start measuring the first slot 1/4″ in from the raw edge (this is to prevent the first slot from being too small since you’ll use 1/4″ in seam allowance sewing the exterior fabric on…it’ll make sense later, trust me).

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Now it should look something like this


Step 3) Attach the ribbon and sew the exterior and lining together

Cut a piece of ribbon that measure 30″.  This will be the tie.  I used some of the lace ribbon I bought online.  Fold the ribbon in half.  Pin the folded ribbon to the 10″ side of the lining (either side).  In order to prevent accidentally sewing over the ribbon while you sew the exterior and lining together, I recommend pinning the ends of the ribbon to the lining fabric somewhere in the center to keep them out of the way.


Place the exterior and lining fabrics right sides together, matching up the raw edges.  Pin in place.

I made the corners round.  You can do this by taking anything circular (a glass, water bottle…) and tracing the rounded edge.


Using a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew along the outside of the fabrics (sewing the corners round where you had traced). Stop sewing when you are 2″ from where you started. I would suggest making the 2″ gap along the 12″ edge with the pocket.  It doesn’t make a difference but it’s more difficult to topstitch/slip stitch the vinyl cotton. Trim the excess fabric from the corners.  Take out the pin you used to prevent from sewing over the ribbon. Turn the fabric right sides out by pushing it through the 2″ gap. Topstitch the opening closed or slip stitch by hand.

Congratulations you’ve finished the make-up brush roll!

Here are some pictures of what mine looks like completed.

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Visit my Etsy site to check out this makeup brush roll

Please feel free to use my tutorial to make your own make-up brush roll  for personal use only :D

Knitting Needle Roll-up Case

This is a project that has been on my to-do list for a long time. A few years ago my brother gave me a complete set of knitting needles (aww how sweet, right?). I had been using mismatched pairs and I was missing a lot of the different sizes. Now that I had the set I needed something pretty to keep them in. I recently ordered some fabric online from eBay in South Korea. I wasn’t sure what to expect but when it arrived it was amazing! The fabric came in sets of 3, with each fabric roughly the size of a fat quarter. I also ordered matching bias tape for a few of the fabrics. Cute!

This was the first project I made with the fabric, here is the tutorial for the knitting needle roll-up case.

Here’s what you’ll need:
a sewing machine
scissors (or rotary cutter and mat)
a fat quarter of cotton fabric for lining
a fat quarter of cotton fabric for exterior
cotton batting
coordinating thread
3 yards of bias tape
pinking shears (optional)

Step 1) Cut your fabrics
Cut a piece of fabric for the exterior and lining to measure 12″ x 20″. Cut a piece of cotton batting the same size. If you are using a direction print, keep in mind that the longer edge of the fabric will be folded up to create the pocket.

Step 2) Quilt the pieces of fabric
Sandwich the batting between the two pieces of fabric, right sides facing out. Pin the pieces together.
I chose to quilt using a chevron pattern, but you can choose whichever pattern you think would best suit your fabrics. One trick that my mom taught me, if you need to sew straight lines but don’t want to mark the fabric, use masking tape! It works really well. It was the only way I was able to machine quilt the Log Cabin Baby Quilt I made, using my machine…and a lot of masking tape. It’s great because you can peel it off easily, it doesn’t damage the fabric and if you happen to sew over it is a little (whoops!) it’s easy to fix. I used the masking tape as a guide to where the tops of my triangles should be. Here’s what my fabric sandwiched looked like:

Step 3) Make the tie
Using the coordinating bias tape, I made the ties to close the roll-up. You could make your own bias tape or substitute it with ribbon, twill tape or ricrac. Cut a piece of bias tape (ribbon, ric rac, twill tape) that measures 30″. Fold the ends in 1/4″ and pin the bias tape together and sew down the open side to create a tie.

Step 4) Attach the binding and the tie
Open up the bias tape. Pin the bias tape (right sides down onto the exterior fabric) around the fabric sandwich.

I found a great blog about how to make your own bias tape and how to attach it here
I do mine slightly differently, but that’s a whole other tutorial!

To make an opening for the ties, start sewing on the long side of the rectangle 6″ down from the corner and sew in place using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Stop when you get 1/2″ from where you started.
Fold the tie in half. Take the tie by the folded edge and place it in the 1/2″ opening you created. Pin in place and sew the tie in place, backstitching at each end. The ties should be on top of one another. It should look something like this:

Trim around the edges (with pinking shears) but be careful not to cut the seam. Fold the bias tape over the raw seams and pin in place. I like to hand sew the binding on using a slip stitch. You can choose to use your machine and topstitch along the edge of the bias tape, but I’ve never had good results. It always looks nice and straight on the side I’m working on but then when I turn it over…the other side looks wonky and it’s a mess to try to fix. Hand stitching is easy and quick for this small project.

Step 5) Create the pocket
With your fabric right side down, fold the bottom up 8″ to create the pocket. Pin it in place. Sew along each side, backstitching at each end.
Your piece now measures 12″ by 12″, with the ties being in the middle like the above picture.

Step 6) Create the needle pockets
The next (and final!) step is to create the pockets for your needles. I had 14 needles sizes 5.0mm to 10.0mm. I would recommend pre-planning how many pockets you will need and how wide you want them to be. I used a 3/4″ width for the smaller needles and 1 to 1 1/4″ for the larger needles.
Once you’ve got an idea about the number and size of pockets you need, go ahead and sew them. If you don’t have as many needles or you want your bag to be a little different you could consider making a pocket larger to hold a measuring tape and stitch markers. Sew straight lines, backstitching at each end. Test each pocket after you sew it to make sure the needle fits snugly. Trim the threads and you’re done!

Here’s some pictures of the finished product.



This bad boy won’t be available for purchase on my Etsy site (I am keeping this one for myself!) but check back soon for more.

Please feel free to use my tutorial to make your own pouch for personal use only.

Log Cabin Baby Quilt

Alright so this isn’t a tutorial but I wanted to post some pictures of what has been keeping me so busy these past few weeks.

I made this quilt for my niece. She should arrive within a few more weeks but I won’t be able to meet her until October! I ordered these cute polka dot fabrics online within the first few weeks of arriving in Korea. I wanted to make sure I had it ready in time for her arrival.  I finished it this weekend and I’m so happy with the results!

Let me know what you think ImageImage


The pattern I used is here:

Small Boxy Pouch

This tutorial is an adaptation of my small zippered pouch.  The technique for sewing is similar but the end result is completely different.  I was looking for a project to make with this fabric.  I bought a fat quarter of this print the day before I moved to South Korea and brought it with me.  I wanted to make something I would use everyday and something that’s cute.  The narwhals print reminds me of Elf when Mr. Narwhal says, “Bye Buddy, hope you find your dad!”. In this tutorial
I’ll show you how to make this adorable Mr. Narwhal boxy pouch. If you want to make the pouch bigger (this one is the size of a pencil case…just find a longer zipper and adjust your fabric measurements to match the dimensions of those below. You’ll need the following to make this pouch:

a sewing machine
scissors (or rotary cutter and mat)
a zipper (9″ in any colour)
a fat quarter of cotton fabric for lining
a fat quarter of cotton fabric for exterior
scrap piece of fabric for a side tab (optional)
zipper foot (optional)
pinking shears (optional)

I recommend pre-washing and pressing all fabrics before any project. I know it’s annoying when all you want to do is get your project started but trust me, it is necessary. Most fabric will shrink a little, making the seams pucker and look gross. Also, when you buy fabric it sometimes has protectants (re: chemicals!) on it, that’d I’d rather get rid of. It’s a good habit to get into and it’ll make this bag hand washable! Wash all fabrics in a mild detergent, hand dry or use on a low heat dryer setting. Press the fabric and you’re ready to go!

Okay let’s begin!
Step 1) Cut your fabrics
Cut one piece 9″ by 14″ of the exterior fabric. Cut one piece 9″ by 14″ of the interior fabric.
Cut your scrap fabric 5″ by 2.5″.

Step 2) Attach the zipper
With your exterior fabric right side up, place the zipper along the top face down. Place the lining right side down on top of the zipper. This makes a sandwich, with the right sides of the fabric facing and the zipper in the middle. Pin in place. Stitch using a 1/4″ seam allowance, back stitching at both ends. If you are not using a zipper foot on your machine, you’ll have to pause halfway through stitching and move the zipper behind your foot (or the stitching will go wonky as your machine manuevers around it). To do this, stitch to the halfway point, leave your needle down, lift your foot up and open up the zipper to move it behind your foot.Turn the fabrics right side out and press the fabric along the zipper.
Next, topstitch along the zipper using an 1/8″ seam allowance. This allows the zipper to lie flat and prevents fabric from being caught in the zipper.

Attaching the zipper to the other side is a little tricky. You’ll do the same thing as before. So, take the bottom of your exterior fabric and put it right side down, aligned with the zipper. You should have the right sides of the exterior fabric together. Next, take the bottom of the lining fabric and put it right side down, aligned on the zipper (on the other side of the zipper. You should once again have a zipper sandwich. Pin the fabric in place. It will look like this:
Sew through all of the layers using a 1/4″ seam allowance using the same instructions as above. Open up the zipper and turn the fabrics right sides out. You should have something that looks like this…the zipper is attached!
Now turn it so the lining is facing out. We’re not done yet!!!

Step 3) Making the tab
This is optional so skip ahead to Step 4 if you’re not interested…otherwise let’s go!
Take your scrap piece that you cut to measure 5″ by 2.5″. Fold the fabric in half lengthwise. Press the fabric and open it up. Fold each side in 1/4″ and press.
Now fold it again lengthwise where you pressed before. This should create a fabric tube with the raw edges folded it. Sew along the open edge using an 1/8″ seam allowance. When it is finished, it should look like this:
Fold it in half to create a loop.

Step 4) Sew the sides together
Sandwich the loop in between the exterior fabrics, matching the raw edges of the loop with the raw edges of the bag. The loop should be aligned with the zipper.

Make sure the zipper is in the centre. In other words, if you are looking down at your project, there should be as much fabric to the right of the zipper as there is to left of the zipper. Adjust as necessary. Pin the sides in place. Sew the sides of the bag using a 1/4″ seam allowance, backstitching at each end. Be careful when you’re sewing over the zipper teeth. Most machines are able to sew over plastic teeth with no problems but avoid sewing over any metal pieces from the zipper…you’ll break the needle 😦 I like to backstitch back and forth over the zipper teeth to add durability.
It should now look like this (I’ve used pinking shears to clean up my seams):
Lightly press your project.

Step 5) Finish the bag!
Alright, so the tricky part…
Lightly pressing the project from the last step will help with this part. Take one corner of your project. Hold it in your fingers like this and make a triangle.
To make sure it is straight, line up the line you created from pressing with the seam from sewing the side. To check and make sure it is straight, peek at the exterior of the bag to see if the fold and the line match. Like this:
If it looks good, pin it in place. Measure 1″ from the top of the triangle. I prefer to just wing it…but you can mark the 1″ and draw a line (chalk or pencil) across the bottom of the triangle to guide your sewing. Sew along the bottom of the triangle, backstitching at each end.
Repeat this process for the other 3 corners.
You’re finished! You can cut off those triangles, turn your bag right side out and admire your work.

I hope this helped you make this cute small boxy pouch.
Of course if you feel like it’s just too much work, check out this item and others at my Etsy shop!

Please feel free to use my tutorial to make your own pouch for personal use only 😀